lTotal distance 115 kms. We cycled it in 2 stages, 66 k and 500 mtrs ascent and 53 k and over 600 mtrs ascent. From Luang Namtha we took the same way back to the junction, where we had turned right when we came from China. On this point, after 38 kms, we had lunch. (There are 2 guesthouses there). Then we turned right, down the 13N, which we thought to be the main through road from China to Luang Prabang and Vientiane. It used to be, since we remember the many Chinese lorries that we saw on the road south from Luang Prabang nearly 3 years ago, they had used this road in order to get there. Now there is hardly any traffic at all and the road is totally worn out. There were countless spots where the road had changed in muddy stretches, giant potholes etc. Obviously the road had been used very intensively and no maintainance has been done, resulting in a road that can hardly be used by normal traffic any more, unbelievably bad. It passes through many small villages, and especially there it was a big muddy mess. No Chinese trucks today. Image us toiling through this road in the pouring rain. First time during our journey that we really got wet. And it’s supposed to be dry season! But in this climate is not so bad to get wet, we have got good rain jackets and though the legs and feet get wet they don’t get cold at all. The bikes need a thorough cleaning though.  All in all the ride was rather easy, inspite of the bad road conditions and the rain, mainly because it was mostly gradually downhill. We stayed in a very basic guesthouse in Na Mo, first house on the right after the bridge. A simple restaurant 100 mtrs before the bridge on the right. We came in late (19.00), and there was no meat and vegetables left. The reason was that a big group of Lao were in. They told us they had wanted to continue their trip to Oudom Xai, but there was a landslide ahead and they had not been able to pass today. Tomorrow the road would be free, they promised us. For dinner we had a big fisch and an omelet, good enough.

Today no rain and a slightly better road. We have settled in Vivanh guesthouse in Oudom Xai (also Muang Xai) and tomorrow we have a heavy stage awaiting, over 80 k and over 1000 mtrs of climbing. We know, since we have done this route before 2 years ago. I classified it as "very heavy" at the time.